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You can’t fault the kitchen’s technical chops. Meaty, melting scallops ($26) arrive just seared enough, with delicate Romenesco cauliflower as a sturdy counterpoint. Piquant striped-bass ceviche ($22) gets deconstructed across an oblong plate, with avocado-cilantro puree somehow conjuring beachfront memories. Kale salad ($19) comes farm-fresh, drizzled in lemony pecorino-kissed vinaigrette.
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